The fries were a little starchy. That was the first clue that something was going to be off. When I first found China Wok on a beautiful fall Sunday, I had unsuccessfully tried three other neighborhood joints. Exotic Roti Express, a favorite Caribbean place was closed, the fish-fry market smelled too fishy, and at the Indian spot next door the guy didn’t even look up from his phone after thirty seconds. It felt like an omen when a brand-new-looking Chinese spot was next door. There was even a fish tank on the counter.
The service was extra polite, too. But, like I said, starchy fries. The wings were crisp but lacked flavor. It was kind of like when a movie has all your favorite actors, but it’s directed by Brett Ratner. In other words, omens are good, but you still gotta deliver that flave.